We departed Buenos Aires in the dark, and landed in El Calafate with the sun rising over the mountain peaks and the turquoise water of Lake Argentina. A hearty brunch of eggs and waffles set us up for exploring the Glaciarium museum, where we learned about the glacier’s namesake, the formation of snow into glacial ice, and the movement of the glacier. Perito Moreno advances two meters per day, an exception to the trend of the many receding glaciers worldwide.

Later we settled into a hostel that was more like a mountain lodge with sweeping views of the valley. They prepared the best parilla dinner we’ve had so far, with slow-roasted lamb and steak cooked to order.

We set out early the next morning for a full day in the Glaciares National Park. Boating across the lake, the height of the glaciar was impressive. With crampons strapped onto our boots, we hiked on the ice and photographed the incredible views. We ate lunch in the park, did some yoga on the rocks while waiting for the boat, and traveled back across the lake to the viewing platforms in time to see ice calving in the afternoon sunlight.

In the evening, we set off to learn more about Argentina’s indigenous culture with an after-dark cave tour and dinner by firelight. Bundled up in ponchos, we ate quinoa soup, bread bowls of steaming lamb stew, and rich chocolate mousse for dessert. It was a great finish to our time in El Calafate.

— Otis & Kaitlyn